My arrival in Dakar was tinged with a degree of apprehension, a feeling directly linked to the recent Africa Cup of Nations (CAN) final. As is widely known, this particular championship match has been perceived by many as a source of contention, seemingly poisoning the historical bonds between Morocco and Senegal – an assessment that holds considerable truth.
Amadou, a courteous and smiling taxi driver in his fifties, quickly identified me as Moroccan. Our conversation meandered through various topics, but as our journey concluded, he offered a poignant observation: “Despite everything, Senegal and Morocco remain brothers…”
That “despite everything” carried significant weight, subtly undermining the very sentiment of brotherhood it aimed to convey. It prompts a crucial question: can a single football match truly shatter deeply rooted connections? Or did it merely act as a catalyst, the final straw that exposed pre-existing fragilities in the relationship?
The topic of the CAN final seemed to lurk in every corner, an unspoken tension ready to surface and darken any interaction. In the bustling bazaars of Dakar’s central Plateau district, while haggling over the price of local fabric, the merchant initially quoted 13,000 XOF per meter. Our attempts to lower it to 10,000 or 11,000 were met with refusal. We then tried the familiar appeal: “We are your brothers from Morocco!” This invocation of shared fraternity (or a heartfelt “assalamou alaykoum”, signifying a common faith) typically softens attitudes and reduces prices across Africa. But not this time. The merchant stiffened, his demeanor hardening instantly: “Ah, if it’s Morocco, then it’s 20,000 XOF!”
“One must sincerely hope that these unsettling emotions will soon dissipate naturally, both in Senegal and in Morocco…”
It was his way of saying, “I am no longer interested in selling to you!” We were, effectively, indirectly asked to leave the bazaar, almost as if we were unwelcome intruders.
A human rights activist, dedicated to combating female genital mutilation, interjected during a conversation: “Please, release our brothers detained in Morocco; what are you waiting for?” The plea for the release of Senegalese supporters arrested and tried following the infamous final emerged as a recurring theme, echoed by various other individuals we encountered.
Some openly admitted to boycotting businesses owned by Moroccans. They spoke candidly, without the diplomatic guardedness or sales-driven rhetoric one might expect. Yet, almost as an afterthought to ease the tension, they would often add: “In Senegal, we genuinely like Moroccans…”
This statement, while likely true, felt profoundly incomplete. The ellipsis invited unspoken emotions: anger, frustration, misunderstanding, and even deep hurt. There is a fervent hope that these unsettling sentiments will soon recede naturally, both within Senegal and Morocco.
Ultimately, governments and football federations will likely reconcile; common interest, guided by reason, invariably prevails. However, the emotional wounds of individuals tend to heal differently, often at a much slower pace.
This visit to Senegal was, as the saying goes, brief yet impactful. While it was undeniably affected by the aforementioned tensions, it was far from ruined. Many residents of Dakar made the experience memorable and endearing through their remarkable human warmth, vibrant joy for life, and their sincere friendship – a friendship truly without any unspoken reservations!
